Hidden in the thickness of the partition, the pocket door exists in multiple versions, opening the way to solutions that are both aesthetic and space-saving.
Flat and hex keys
Plasterer and painter tools…
Metal pocket box (Fishplate Extension) and its accessories (covering kit, shell handles and finger puller); honeycomb isoplane holder (size 204 x 73 cm – thickness 38 mm)
Neoprene glue cartridge
Paper joint strips
Special plasterboard underlay
Special wet room finish paint
Most often sold as a kit, a pocket door is made up of a metal frame inside which an opening hung on a rail. There are different types of frames that allow the integration of standard sliding doors 73, 83 and 93 cm wide, not exceeding 40 mm thick. It is also possible to find glass doors, in wood, melamine or steel, in various colors and finishes, even with acoustic performance or fire resistance…
New or under renovation?
The installation of such a door is simple, especially if it has to be integrated into a metal frame partition. The installation of the chassis and the assembly of the partition are then carried out simultaneously. The dimensions of the uprights and the frame rails must be chosen according to those of the chassis uprights.
In renovations, the integration of a pocket system is possible but requires more work: for example the enlargement of the opening in the partition to integrate the chassis.
Furthermore, when the partitions are made before the floor is finished and the covering is laid, the frame and the door must be placed several centimeters above the slab, taking into account the total thickness of the complex : screed, tiles, etc.
What do you need to do ?
Prepare all the chassis parts by following the instructions.
Start by assembling the bottom cross member between the two vertical uprights.
In the upper part of the frame, fix the rail used to support the sliding of the door.
Using the self-drilling screws provided, screw it onto the uprights.
Using two people to avoid veiling the structure, turn the frame over, then install the horizontal crosspieces as before to form the box.
Finish screwing the rail on the uprights in accordance with the instructions in the manual.
Adjust the speed and torque of the screwdriver so as not to tighten too hard.
Insert the polystyrene shims provided between each crosspiece to maintain their spacing during further assembly. They should only be removed once the chassis is completely in place.
Slide the outside post of the door opening into the top rail.
Use a hammer to knock down the metal fins to lock the connection.
Position the metal spacers provided between the external upright and the box in order to stiffen the entire chassis at the doorway.
Mark the location of the future partition and the chassis on the ground, taking into account the thickness of the facing (plasterboard).
In the lower part, pinpoint the thickness of the finished floor (insulation, screed, finish coating). Adjust the frame to the correct height by sliding wooden blocks. Complete the frame of the partition.
Hold the frame in place using clamps or shims. Complete the framework of the partition (transom, pier) by doubling the rails if it needs to be reinforced. Mount the entire frame and chassis.
Install the plasterboard with the screws provided (19 mm). Unscrew the fixing plates of the metal spacers. Then remove the polystyrene shims (photo 5), remove the metal spacers and unscrew their fixing plates.
Assemble the plastic elements forming the door floor guide. Then screw them to the bottom of the chassis in the holes provided for this purpose.
Casters in two parts. The door is suspended on casters in two parts: an axis which allows to adjust the plumb of the door and a double caster which slides inside the high rail.
Screw the metal hooks of the casters. Mark with a pencil on the edge at the top of the door the location of the metal hooks on the rollers. Screw them in using the screws provided.
After sliding the rollers and fixing the guide rail, present the door. Engage the high hooks on the axes of the rollers.
Using a flat wrench, adjust the height and the plumb of the door.
With a flat wrench, adjust the height and the plumb of the door so that its lower part slides perfectly in the floor guide. Lock the lock nut.
Using an Allen wrench, adjust the hanging stop.
Test the operation of the door.
Using an Allen wrench, adjust the hanging stop. It keep the door closed against the opposite post.
Door finishes and trim
In the grooves of the covering that receives the door, insert the rubber seals provided to cushion its closing.
Dress the top rail with two crosspieces attached to the vertical upright. The top rail is cover by with two crosspieces.
Fix the crosspieces with L-shaped dowels. The crossbars are combine with L-shaped dowels, slid into the grooves, then cut.